Spaces of memory in Castellón: how to visit the war heritage of Espadán-Mijares with respect

Spaces of memory in Castellón: how to visit the war heritage of Espadán-Mijares with respect

The memorial sites in Castellón are better understood when one stops viewing them as mere war remnants. In Espadán-Mijares, there are parapets, command posts, defensive lines, former positions, and villages that were trapped in the Battle of Levante. But what matters is not just "what you see." What matters is how you see it.

The Espadán-Mijares Commonwealth's war tourism guide focuses on five municipalities: Aín, Alcudia de Veo, Espadilla, Suera, and Villamalur. All are part of a landscape marked by the 1938 front, the XYZ Line, and a topography that shaped every advance, every defense, and every retreat. It's an attractive visit, yes. It also demands respect.

What are you actually visiting?

The Battle of Levante was neither a minor episode nor a mere backdrop of scattered trenches. After Teruel, the Francoist advance towards Valencia encountered organized Republican resistance and difficult terrain. From this clash emerged the XYZ Line, a defensive line of more than 150 kilometers stretching from Almenara to Santa Cruz de Moya, with structures distributed across several sectors of resistance.

In practice, this means that the visitor is not simply looking at “military ruins.” They are looking at signs of a front that divided the territory: to the north, the Francoist vanguard with its own positions; to the south, the Republican resistance. This interpretation significantly changes the experience. A parapet ceases to be a stone wall and becomes a decision made in cold blood, fear, urgency, and calculation.

Memory spaces in Castellón: they are not a theme park

Let's be clear: wartime heritage sites aren't visited like a scenic overlook. You can take photos, walk around, learn, and enjoy the scenery, but it makes no sense to turn these places into mere backdrops. There are family wounds, material remains, and local memory. Those who go there only looking for "cool bunkers" are missing out on the most profound significance.

A good visit begins before you arrive. Read the context, check the access points, consult the municipal information if you have any doubts, and accept that some points are much better understood with a guide. You don't need to know about military strategy to enjoy it, but it does help to ask yourself a simple question: why was this hill, this castle, or this pass so important?

Five municipalities to explore the wartime heritage of Espadán-Mijares

Aín: Picayo, Torcas and the tension of the XYZ Line

In Aín, Resistance Center number 2 was located at the Picayo peak. The area was reorganized when Franco's troops made contact with the XYZ Line through Alcudia de Veo and La Vilavella in July 1938. The Torcas peak became associated with a defense that had great propaganda value, and the surrounding area still retains features such as parapets, rifle pits, and the Gurugú peak.

The recommendation here is to slow down. Aín isn't asking for a quick "I'll take a picture and leave" visit. It's asking you to observe the relationship between the castle, the peaks, and the passes. The terrain explains more than any information panel: where you could advance, from where you could keep watch, and why a seemingly small position could determine the fate of an entire area.

Alcudia de Veo: Jinquer, the Twin Peaks and the logic of the elevations

Alcudia de Veo helps to understand mountain warfare. From Jinquer, several attacks attempted to advance towards Almenarilla and ended with the capture of one of the so-called "Tetones" or "Gemelas" (Thighs), a hill that was counterattacked on several occasions by the Republicans. Later, the Francoist 108th Division reorganized the area into centers of resistance and even established a second line between the castle and the Órganos de Benitandús.

The abandoned village of Jinquer adds another layer: the civilian one. It's not all about positions and maps. There are also evacuations, emptied villages, and lives disrupted. This nuance makes Alcudia de Veo one of the places where a more measured explanation is most appreciated.

Espadilla: the Mijares line and the time gained on offense

In Espadilla, the visit connects with the organization of the Mijares line, designed to halt the advance towards Sagunto and link up with the troops at Sarrión. In July 1938, the Francoist advances forced the evacuation of the town, which was then taken by the Cavalry. Defensive remains at Peña la Mula and Cueva Negra bear witness to this resistance on rugged terrain.

It's important to avoid overly simplistic interpretations here. The war wasn't just a series of arrows on a map. It was exhaustion, uncertainty, and decisions made with incomplete information. If you walk through the area, consider the physical effort required to fortify and defend these hills in the middle of summer.

Suera: command, bombings and immediate rearguard

Suera was captured on July 5, 1938. The Begoña Tercio garrisoned the area around the Castillo del Arbolito, and the following day, the offensive continued with bombardments of the mountains by the Condor Legion. The area allows us to speak of an advance towards Jinquer and Almenarilla, the castle of Maús, the Casalet, and also of logistics: the 108th Division established a command post and related services in Suera, including ammunition, transport, and the evacuation of the wounded.

This is a good place to remember that wartime heritage is not limited to combat. A command post, an evacuation route, or a repurposed piece, like the warhead from Mas de la Campana, tell the story of how war reshaped daily life in the region.

Villamalur: well-preserved fortifications and maximum caution

Villamalur stands out for the excellent state of preservation of its defensive positions. From December 1938 onwards, the area's defenses were expanded with new centers located in Castillejos and between the Moorish fortress, Cabezo, and Jupillo. The guide notes that even construction details such as loopholes and decorative elements have been preserved.

That's precisely why you have to be especially careful. The small things are the first to disappear when a visit is done without planning: a moved stone, a poorly placed support, someone perched on a parapet to take a photo. Villamalur deserves a slow and respectful visit.

Quick table to choose the visit without losing the context

Not all points are equally important. This table helps you choose your approach to the route based on the type of analysis you want to do of the area.

Before you go: respect, safety and common sense

A route through Civil War remnants in Castellón can be a magnificent experience, but it shouldn't be approached as if it were a leisurely stroll through town. There's hilly terrain, uneven ground, old structures, and areas where access can vary depending on the condition of the path or land ownership.

Basic tips that really make a difference:

● Check updated information before you go, especially if you want to visit less signposted remains.

● Wear hiking boots, bring water and avoid the hottest hours of the day.

● Do not enter unstable structures or force closed access points.

● Do not move stones, do not pick up fragments, and do not use metal detectors.

● Don't turn trenches, parapets, or impact sites into backdrops for poses. The photo can be taken without leaving the location.

● If you are in a group, reduce noise, respect property and leave the environment the same or better than you found it.

How to explain it if you're with children or non-experts

There's no need to make the visit too dramatic. With children or people unfamiliar with the topic, it works best to explain three key ideas: why a mountain was fortified, how a position was protected, and what the front lines meant for the surrounding villages. Fewer dates, more scenery. Less talk of "won or lost," more of "why being here mattered."

It's also important to avoid sensationalism. Historical heritage is best understood through a sense of responsibility rather than through grand narratives. If the group understands that each remnant is part of a human story, the visit gains depth without becoming tedious.

Common questions before visiting these places

Can they be visited independently?

In many cases, yes, but not all the ruins have the same level of signage, preservation, or accessibility. If it's your first time, a guided tour or a visit organized with information from the local council can prevent confusion and, above all, a superficial understanding of the site.

Is it war tourism or historical memory?

It can be both if done well. War tourism describes the type of heritage: positions, fortifications, defensive lines. Historical memory provides the perspective: remembering that behind those structures there were combatants, civilians, evacuations, and towns scarred by war.

What is the best time to go?

Spring and autumn are usually more pleasant times for hiking in the Espadán-Mijares Natural Park, but be careful of pollen in spring. In summer, some areas can be challenging due to heat and exposure. After heavy rain, it's best to check the condition of paths and avoid entering any unstable sections.

Can I take photos?

Yes, with common sense. A documentary photograph of the landscape, a fortification, or a view helps to tell the story of the visit. It's quite another thing to climb on parapets, move objects, or use these places as frivolous scenery. The difference is noticeable.

So that the visit leaves more than just a photo

The memorial sites in Castellón are valuable because they force us to look at the land differently. Where today there are paths, pine forests, and viewpoints, in 1938 there were lines of resistance, evacuations, command posts, and decisions made under extreme circumstances. Espadán-Mijares preserves part of that history in its landscape.

Visiting the wartime heritage of Espadán-Mijares with respect doesn't mean solemnizing everything or walking around afraid of making a mistake. It means being informed, not damaging anything, not appropriating any remains, and understanding that these places aren't there to decorate a getaway, but to remind us of a difficult part of local history.